When it comes to sewing in apparel, it’s not only the strength of the thread and quality of the fabric that matters. The thread should pass through the numerous parts of the machines moved by these machines at high speed and with uniform tension and uniformity of stitching. The purpose of the lubricants used in the thread is to minimise the inert ability of the thread to resist movement, help prevent heat from being generated and ensure that the sewing process runs smoothly.
When garment manufacturers are required to process large quantities of items, then choosing the right types of thread lubrication can help to minimize the thread breakage, reduce machine downtimes and achieve a better production efficiency. Familiarity with the mechanism and importance of lubrication can assist the manufacturer in making more intelligent selections in the selection of thread and control process.
Table of Contents
What is a Thread Lubricant?
Lubricants are used to treat the sewing thread during the manufacture to enhance its performance in the sewing process. They make the thread smoother and enable it to move through guides, tension discs, needle eyes, and other moving parts of the machine without soaring and scratching.
The type and quantity of lubricant will vary, depending on the type of thread, its usage and the clothing to be sewn, as well as the sewing conditions. The best lubricant to use for light clothing might not be as effective in heavy cottons or fast industrial sewing machines.
The severity of the thread lubrication needs to be carefully controlled. An inadequate lubrication can result in friction issues, while an excessively or improperly lubricated product can impact the consistency of the stitch, the look of the fabric, and any processing downstream.
Reducing Friction During High-Speed Sewing
An industrial sewing machine runs at high speed, which leads to the high speed of the thread passing through the sew path of the machine. Friction can result from continuous contact with guides, tension and the needle and result in irregular stitches.
This friction is reduced by the use of thread lubricants or by making thread move freely through these components. This ensures smoother guiding of the thread and helps to keep the tension even all through the sewing process.
When sewing thicker fabrics, fabric layers, or items that need to be made in a continuous high-speed production, reduced friction is especially beneficial. It may also be applied to prevent wearing out of the thread to unnecessary parts of the machine repeatedly during contact.
Controlling Needle Heat
High-speed apparel manufacturing is of concern for needle heat. Sewing a synthetic fabric or a tight weave can create friction between the needle, the thread and the fabric, which may produce heat.
Prolonged exposure to high temperature can cause the threads to become weak or melt, break threads and destroy heat-sensitive fabrics. Having proper lubricant applied on the thread can minimise friction and prevent excessive heat build-up near the needle.
But this does not eliminate needle heating: Other factors affecting temperature are machine speed, needle design, fabric thickness and material properties. It is important that manufacturers should take these into account when troubleshooting sewing problems in regard to heat.
Minimising Thread Breakage
Frequent thread breaks cause production downtime and cause the operators to stop the machines, rethread them and check seams. While breakage may be a consequence of over-tension, damaged needles, bad thread or incorrect machine setting, friction is another potential cause of breakage.
With proper lubrication, a needle with a thread will glide through the machine easily to minimise the stress while sewing. This can contribute to reducing the damage from abrasion and to a greater level of operational uniformity.
To achieve optimal performance, manufacturers should link the following versatile stitching conditions: Selecting the proper needle and managing the tension, properly using threads, regularly maintaining the machine, and using the right stitch.
Improving Stitch Consistency and Seam Quality
Moving thread in the same direction is the key to making even stitches and seams. Different friction values can cause differences in thread tension, causing variations in stitching and/or the seam quality.
Lubricants can help to achieve more constant sewing conditions by helping to provide smoother thread transport. This is particularly relevant when there is sizing or decorative stitching visible on the outside of the garment, or it demands a high quality.
There is no less importance for the proper timing of the machine, the proper tension or density of the stitches, the condition of the needle and the skill or technique of the operator.
Supporting Different Fabric and Thread Applications
Each type of apparel fabric presents its unique challenges in sewing. Some lightweight fabrics can pucker if not tensioned properly, whilst denim, work wear and multi-layered clothing can cause a higher level of friction when the needle passes through and thread is moved within its layers.
Therefore, thread lubricant formulations should be compatible with the thread material to be used and the intended applications. The finishing of polyester (polyester corespun thread), nylon, cotton and other kinds of threads can be different, as their fabric constructions and stitching circumstances govern.
Manufacturers should also take into account if garments are to be washed, printed, finished with a coating, or dyed. It is important to choose lubricants that will not stain or leave a residue or interfere with subsequent treatments.
Choosing and Managing Thread Lubrication
The key to good lubrication starts by choosing threads for your specific machine speed, fabric and stitch construction. Apparel manufacturers need to assess sewing performance in production trials, not just the specifications of the sewing threads.
Important considerations include:
- Lubricant consistency: Providing consistent lubricant ensures reliable sewing results.
- Fibre compatibility: The texture should complement the thread fibre and type of fabric.
- Heat resistance: The thread should hold up well at the anticipated sewing heat.
- Cleanliness: The lubricant should not leave unwanted marks or residues.
- Finish compatibility: The finished product must be appropriate for any post-processing required by a garment.
By routinely monitoring and evaluating the quality of the thread and keeping in regular contact with the suppliers, manufacturers can pinpoint lubrication-related issues before they take a toll on the volume production.
Conclusion
Any sewing thread in apparel manufacturing needs to be lubricated. They can minimize friction, maintain stable material flow, manage heat, and create a smoother production process, which can lead to fewer thread breaks, more consistent material flow, and reduced heat buildup.
The key is to balance the issue of lubrication with the quality of thread, machine settings, needle type and fabric specifications. Self-lubricating threads are also available in the market these days. By addressing these factors collectively, apparel manufacturers can enhance sewing repeatability, minimise unnecessary downtime, and ensure high-quality product quality for apparel.